Domaine Defaix
An Irresistible Lineup of High-Scoring sub $100 1er Cru Chablis & White Burgs!
The Defaix family have the midas touch when it comes to producing dazzlingly pure and immensely pleasurable chardonnay, within both Chablis (Domaine Bernard Defaix) and the Côte Chalonnaise of Burgundy (Domaine Jaeger-Defaix).
Founded by its namesake in 1959, Domaine Bernard Defaix is now run by brothers Sylvain and Didier Defaix, with an emphasis on organic and biodynamic principles and a deep affinity for the nuances of terroir. Chablis is synonymous with elegance, purity and energy, thanks in large part to the fossil-rich Kimmeridgian soils that showcase the same chalky minerality of neighbouring champagne. In the right hands, like those of Sylvain and Didier, the wines produced here absolutely sing.
From Chablis, we focus on two vintages from the sun-drenched Côte de Lechet premier cru vineyard - 2021 (90-93pts) and 2022 (91-93pts). Bernard Defaix has the largest holding of any producer in the Cote de Lechet climat, so it is little wonder that Sylvain and Didier have honed their winemaking skills here so precisely. The vineyard sits on a steep, southeast facing slope on the left bank of the Seiren, and the wines produced here are renowned for their energy and racy minerality. The polar growing seasons of 2021 and 2022 (the former wetter and cooler and the latter warmer than average) have produced two exceptionally unique versions of the Domaine's hallmark Chablis. Both with outstanding reviews from the likes of Burghound.
From Rully in the Cote Chalonnaise, we present two incredible value premier cru white Burgundies by Domaine Jaeger-Defaix. This is the family Domaine of Didier Defaix’s wife Helene and the vines here are also managed organically. Scott had the pleasure of tasting through the 2022s with Helene recently and was blown away by the quality on offer. To find such exceptional premier cru Chardonnay for less than $100 is a rarity, and not something to be passed up lightly.
The 2022 Rabourcé and 2022 Les Cloux both scored highly at 90-93 points from Burghound and looked decidedly rounder and more intense in the lineup next to the Bernard Defaix Chablis’. The Rabource vineyard has the nickname “the Montrachet of Rully” due to the richness and power evident in the wines produced, while the Le Cloux is perhaps tighter at first glance, yet both displayed excellent length and intensity.
“Within Rully, Les Cloux is known for its ability to balance elegant and mouthwatering flesh with tangy grip and fine length, and 2022 delivers in spades.”
Only a few minutes’ drive from Beaune, white Burgundies from Rully still offer terrific value for the discerning Chardonnay lover.
