Tasted blind at the Burgundy 2011 horizontal tasting in Beaune. The Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Malconsorts 2011 has a more obvious nose than de Montille’s, perhaps less complex but still nicely defined with crisp bruised raspberry and blueberry aromas. Only with aeration in the glass does it reluctantly reveal its mineral core – this is more taciturn at the moment. The palate is silky smooth on the entry, the acidity discretely cutting through the concentrated brambly red berry fruit. There is a sense of density on the “solid” finish that is obdurate at the moment but should soften with bottle age without drying out. A little tough natured at present – give this plenty of time in the cellar. Neal Martin