Quite remarkable, steeped in fruit and character and, if anything, a step up in sophistication for this famous label. It's deeply perfumed and aromatic, with a spicy, floral and voluminous bouquet of astonishing complexity. Its fiery varietal aromas are entwined with exotic scents of five spice, creamy and earthy aspects plus an emerging meatiness. Medium to full-bodied, it's so much finer and more savoury than previous vintages, with a profoundly concentrated presence of translucently clear fruit extending with cedary oak down a pliant, supple spine of drying fine tannins, culminating in a lingering core of briary fruit and leathery, smoky character. Jeremy Oliver