(20% of this fruit comes from the top of the slope, which Liger-Belair says brings limestone freshness): Bright ruby-red. Blackberry, roast coffee and smoke on the nose. Dense and round, offering a velvety texture and good stuffing for village wine. Very ripe but nicely leavened by smoky minerality. In a softer style, finishing with ripe tannins. This is almost ready to be racked; indeed, Liger-Belair planned to bottle it before Christmas. Stephen Tanzer