Gleaming green-gold; the bouquet has the hallmark edge of struck flint, adding immeasurably to its complexity, but also laying the way for the palate to follow; here is a chardonnay that stands apart and aloof from all other chardonnays in Australia; its power is as formidable, and as hard to explain as, a black hole in space. It just is. Talking about its balance is far easier, for there is an inexorable logic about the way the fruit, oak and acid are so seamlessly married to each other. James Halliday