Deep red colour with tints of purple and black, less bright than the Hill of Roses, the bouquet more earthbound, more terrestrial at first, with fresh-turned earth and charred oak aromas leading, an echo of the eucalypt forest on a hot day too, while the palate is very powerful, firmly structured and solidly built, with abundant firm tannins and a slight alcohol afterglow. There is tremendous intensity, very full body and amazing horsepower. With time in the glass the trademark dried-herb notes arise, sage and oregano, with traces of black pepper and clove as well, the palate bursting with richness, a deep core of sweet fruit and a tremendously long follow-through, redolent of ironstone. A big wine for this vineyard, with bold, drying but supple tannins and great authority. Drink 2023–2048. (60th anniversary release; 57th vintage) 21 Mar 2023. – 99pts, Huon Hooke

Matured in French oak (20% new) for 18 months. It opens with gloriously heady scents of wild herbs, spice and pepper, thence flawlessly balanced dark berry fruits, velvet tannins and quicksilver acidity. A 30-plus year future, yet ready for consumption now. Drink to 2050. – 99pts, James Halliday