Much like Tyrrell’s Vat 47, Kumeu River Chardonnay is a rare bird, in that they make such beautiful Chardonnay from a fairly warm and humid climate. Pear and white peach, spiced pastries, a little mint and almond, floral too. It’s succulent and fleshy, all that nutty pastry but with tight acidity, a slight herbal/cucumber flavour gives it a lift and adds complexity, flinty and dusty/chalky, with a long bright finish cinched with lemon zest, lime and quiet perfume. So fine and detailed, already. Wonderful. Gary Walsh for The Wine Front