An attenuated vintage with a spread of physiological ripeness manifest in impeccably tuned-if very ripe-grapes. And it shows. Floral. Very! A darker tone of fruit: dark, rather than red. Blue scents, too. Succulent with the sheer fruit extract spread across the mouth. Yet what makes this full-weighted pinot delicious is the saline, thirst-slaking briary tannins. A manifest of confident extraction. No dally wally! 18 days. Real, moreish grippiness here, mitigating the fruit sweetness while corralling the whole into a savoury meld of nourishment and sappy, spicy length. Ned Goodwin MW for James Halliday