First made in '60, and for long called 'poor man's Grange', a strange name for a $90 wine. It's always been a varietal and regional blend, once matured in hand-me-down Grange barrels, but no longer. There is much conjecture about the amount of Dom Perignon made each year, and the same is true of this wine. A bottle number could cause embarrassment. It's seriously good, its palate of black fruits, licorice, oak and earth held tight by tannins as only Penfolds can make. James Halliday