[AM - Outstanding] Here too a background application of wood sets off the attractively layered nose that features notes of spice, pungent earth and a cool but ripe mix of various red berry fruit and plum scents. There is excellent punch to the intense and broad-shouldered flavors that exhibit a sleek muscularity as well as ample minerality on the powerful and youthfully austere finale. This is impressive if not quite as harmonious as the Champans. Still, this very firmly structured effort is worth checking out provided that you have at least some patience. Allen Meadows