The 2021 chardonnay from our mates at Sorrenberg is in minute quantity. We missed the 2020 regular release, of course, bushfires and all that. Biodynamics writ large, and the farming excellence continues. As an aside, I’m taking a heap of wines to New Zealand tomorrow for various winemakers I am visiting over the next week; my suitcase is stuffed with Sorrenberg, if that’s a credential.

The wine itself is more full flavoured than many recent releases. It’s supple and soft, perhaps in a way a return to ye olde Sorrenberg, but not missing vitality and vim. It’s succulent and plush at the same time. Scents of ripe lemon, dried apple, nougat and vanilla, a dusting of cinnamon and flinty minerally lift. The palate is more vivacious, concentrated though, preserved lemon, ginger, cloudy apple juice and licks of vanilla, almond, cinnamon again. It’s rollicking and rich yet holds shape and has incredible length. Classic, classy, complex. I couldn’t not drain the bottle. Drink in its youth. - 96pts, Wine Front